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Of all the shellfish, oysters are the most prized, not only by modern epicures and patrons of oyster bars, but also by traditional peoples throughout the globe. In fact, mollusks like oysters were probably one of the most important foods for the hunter-gather–easy to collect and full of nutrients.

Recently, geologist Robert C. Walter and his colleagues discovered “the earliest well-dated example of an oyster bar–a fossil reef on Africa’s Red Sea coast where ancestral humans must have waded out to collect oysters, clams, scallops and crabs some 125,000 years ago.” Weston Price reported that oysters and similar mollusks were consumed as frequently as possible by the peoples of the South Seas and Outer Hebrides. Oysters are particularly prized in Korea and in northern Europe. In England, oysters were considered a food for the poor until at least the beginning of the 20th century.

Oysters are nature’s best source of the trace mineral zinc, containing 45-91 mg zinc per 100 grams. (Second on the list is ginger root at about 7 mg per 100 grams, followed by beef and lamb at about 6 mg per 100 grams. Zinc in grains and legumes is more difficult to absorb because of the presence of phytic acid in these foods.) As zinc is needed for a healthy prostate gland and for the replacement of seminal fluid, oysters are considered important for male virility. But oysters are important for women as well. Zinc is required for numerous enzymes that aid in reproduction and mental function. Zinc cannot be stored and pregnancy increases the body’s requirement for zinc. Oysters are the best way of meeting that need.

Oysters also supply iron, selenium and other trace minerals; fat-soluble vitamins A and D; and the long-chain omega-3 fatty acids DHA and EPA. The long-chain fatty acids in oysters make a synergistic combination with saturated fatty acids from butter and coconut oil.

Oysters were probably one of the first of the marine creatures to be farmed. The baby oysters or “spat” are provided with tiles on which to attach. These tiles are then gathered up and removed or redistributed in “parks” or “basins” where they are sheltered from predators. Farming is necessary because of reduced supplies of indigenous oysters. The American oyster harvest has declined from a high of 170 million pounds per year in 1895 to something like 50 million today. Oyster consumption enjoyed a heyday, with the proliferation of oyster houses and oyster saloons, the precursors to the modern oyster bar.

There are many varieties of oysters including European, Portuguese, American (from the east coast) and Olympia (from the west coast.) Asian oysters can grow up to ten inches long. This species is not eaten raw, but cooked or sun dried or turned into oyster sauce.

Oyster cookery flourished on both sides of the Atlantic in the 19th century when oysters were plentiful and cheap. But as supplies began to dwindle, oysters were more likely to be eaten raw.

Two luxury dishes, Oysters Bienville and Oysters Rockefeller, are considered the epitome of haute cuisine in America. Both recipes originated in New Orleans. The recipe for Oysters Rockefeller dates from the early 1900s and was considered a culinary secret.

Oysters are best eaten raw, on the half shell and very fresh, with nothing more than squeeze of lemon, but for the squeamish, they can be incorporated into a variety of dishes. For cooking purposes, oysters can be purchased as fresh in the shell, fresh removed from the shell, or canned.

Oysters Rockefeller

Serves 6

36 oysters on the half shell
1/2 pound fresh spinach
1 bunch celery
1 bunch green onions
1 fennel bulb
1 bunch parsley
2 1/2 cups (5 sticks) unsalted butter
4 tablespoons organic Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons pernod
sea salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper to taste

Chop vegetables very fine. Melt butter and add the greens. Sauté gently for several minutes. Add remaining ingredients and stir well.
Set 6 oysters on 6 pie pans filled with rock salt. Top each oyster with the vegetable mixture and place under the broiler until heated through, about 5-6 minutes. Place each pie pan on a plate and serve.

Sautéed Oysters

Serves 4-6

1 quart fresh oysters
unbleached white flour
sea salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper to taste
coconut oil
finely chopped parsley or cilantro

Drain oysters and pat dry. Mix salt, pepper and cayenne with flour. Dredge the oysters well in the flour mixture and sauté gently in batches, 4-5 at a time, in the coconut oil. Keep warm on a heated platter. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley or cilantro.

Oyster-Wild Rice Stew

Serves 10-12

1 quart oysters, fresh or canned, chopped
1 cup wild rice
2 medium onions
1 bunch celery, including leaves
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
1 cup dry white wine
2 quarts chicken broth
1-2 cups creme fraiche or sour cream
sea salt and pepper to taste
fresh parsley or chives, finely chopped

Chop onions and celery finely and sauté in butter until soft. Add white wine and bring to a boil. Add chicken broth and rice and simmer for about 2 hours or until rice is completely cooked. Add oysters, cream and seasonings. Simmer about 10 minutes. To serve, garnish with chopped chives or parsley.

Oyster Casserole

Serves 10-12

1 pound Eden pasta, cooked and drained
1 quart oysters (fresh or canned)
1 pound cheddar cheese, grated
sea salt and black pepper
2 cups whole milk or cream, or a mixture
1 cup whole grain breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon butter

Butter a 9-inch by 13-inch pyrex pan. Spread a thin layer of cooked pasta in the bottom. Place half the oysters on the pasta and sprinkle with half the cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Repeat with another layer of pasta, then oysters, cheese and seasonings. Pour on whole milk or cream or a mixture. Top with a layer of pasta followed by breadcrumbs dotted with butter. Bake at 350 degrees for about 1 hour.

Oyster Perloo

Serves 4

1 quart oysters, fresh or canned
4 slices no-nitrate bacon
1 medium onion, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
sea salt and pepper to taste

Cut bacon into pieces and fry in a heavy cast iron skillet until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon. Add vegetables to the bacon grease and sauté until soft. Pat oysters dry with paper towels and add to vegetables. Sauté about 3-4 minutes. Remove to a heated dish and top with bacon pieces. Serve with brown rice or a green vegetable.

 

This article appeared in Wise Traditions in Food, Farming and the Healing Arts, the quarterly magazine of the Weston A. Price Foundation, Winter 2000.

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