Tragedy
& Hype: The Third International Soy Symposium
by Sally Fallon and Mary G. Enig, PhD
First published in Nexus Magazine, Volume 7, Number
3, April-May, 2000
© 2000 Sally Fallon and Mary G. Enig, PhD. All Rights Reserved.
"Each year, research on the health effects of soy and
soybean components seems to increase exponentially . . . Furthermore,
research is not just expanding in the primary areas under investigation,
such as cancer, heart disease and osteoporosis; new findings suggest that
soy has potential benefits that may be more extensive than previously
thought." So writes Mark Messina, PhD, General Chairperson of the Third
International Soy Symposium, held in Washington, DC in November of 1999.1
For four days, well-funded scientists who were gathered
in the nation's capital made presentations to an admiring press and to
their sponsors—United Soybean Board, American Soybean Association, Monsanto,
Protein Technologies International, Central Soya, Cargill Foods, Personal
Products Company, SoyLife, Whitehall-Robins Healthcare and the soybean
councils of Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, Minnesota, Nebraska,
Ohio and South Dakota.
The symposium marked the apogee of a decade-long marketing
campaign to gain consumer acceptance of tofu, soy milk, soy ice cream,
soy cheese, soy sausage and soy derivatives, particularly soy isoflavones
such as genistein and diadzen, the estrogen-like compounds found in soybeans.
It coincided with an FDA decision, announced October 25, to allow a health
claim for products "low in saturated fat and cholesterol" that contain
6.25 grams of soy protein per serving. Breakfast cereals, baked goods,
convenience food, smoothie mixes and meat substitutes could now be sold
with labels touting benefits to cardiovascular health as long as these
products contained one heaping teaspoon of soy protein per 100-gram serving.
Marketing the Perfect Food
"Just imagine you could grow the perfect food. This food
not only would provide affordable nutrition, but also would be delicious
and easy to prepare in a variety of ways. It would be a healthful food,
with no saturated fat. In fact, you would be growing a virtual fountain
of youth on your back forty." The author is Dean Houghton, writing for
The Furrow2, a magazine published in twelve languages
by the John Deere tractor company. "This ideal food would help prevent,
and perhaps reverse, some of the world's most dreaded diseases. You could
grow this miracle crop in a variety of soils and climates. Its cultivation
would build up, not deplete, the land. . . this miracle food already exists.
. . It's called soy."
Just imagine. Farmers have been imagining. . . and planting
more soy. What was once a minor crop, listed in the 1913 USDA handbook
not as a food but as an industrial product, now covers 72 million acres
of American farmland. Part of this harvest will be used to feed chickens,
turkeys, pigs, cows and salmon. Most of the rest will be squeezed to produce
oil for margarine, shortenings and salad dressings.
Advances in technology make it possible to produce isolated
soy protein from what was once considered a waste product—the defatted,
high-protein soy chips—and then transform something that looks and smells
terrible into products that can be consumed by human beings. Flavorings,
preservatives, sweeteners, emulsifiers and synthetic nutrients have turned
soy protein isolate, the food processors' ugly duckling, into a New Age
Cinderella.
Lately, this new fairy-tale food has been marketed not
so much for her beauty as for her virtues. Early on, products based on
soy protein isolate were sold as extenders and meat substitutes, a strategy
that failed to produce the requisite consumer demand. The industry changed
its approach. "The quickest way to gain product acceptability in the less
affluent society," said an industry spokesman, ". . . is to have the product
consumed on its own merit in a more affluent society."3 So
soy is now sold to the upscale consumer, not as a cheap poverty food,
but as a miracle substance that will prevent heart disease and cancer,
whisk away hot flashes, build strong bones and keep us forever young.
The competition—meat, milk, cheese, butter and eggs—has been duly demonized
by the appropriate government agencies. Soy serves as meat and milk for
a new generation of politically correct vegetarians.
Marketing costs money, especially when it needs to be
bolstered with "research," but there's plenty of funds available. All
soybean producers pay a mandatory assessment of one-half to one percent
of the net market price of soybeans. The total—something like eighty million
dollars annually4—supports United Soybean's program to "strengthen
the position of soybeans in the market place and maintain and expand domestic
and foreign markets for uses for soybeans and soybean products." State
soybean councils from Maryland, Nebraska, Delaware, Arkansas, Virginia,
North Dakota and Michigan provide another two and one-half million dollars
yearly for "research."5 Private companies like Archer Daniels
Midland also contribute their share. ADM spent $4.7 million for advertising
on "Meet the Press" and $4.3 million on "Face the Nation" during the course
of a year.6 Public relations firms help convert research projects
into newspaper articles and advertising copy; law firms lobby for favorable
government regulations; IMF money funds soy processing plants in foreign
countries; and free trade policies keep soybean abundance flowing to overseas
destinations.
The push for more soy has been relentless and global
in its reach. Soy protein is now found in most supermarket breads. It
is being used to transform "the humble tortilla, Mexico's corn-based staple
food, into a protein-fortified ‘super-tortilla' that would give a nutritional
boost to the nearly 20 million Mexicans who live in extreme poverty."7
Advertising for a new soy-enriched loaf from Allied Bakeries in Britain
targets menopausal women seeking relief from hot flashes. Sales are running
at a quarter of a million loaves per week.8
The soy industry hired Norman Robert Associates, a public
relations firm, to "get more soy products onto school menus."9
The USDA responded with a proposal to scrap the 30 percent limit for soy
in school lunches. The NuMenu program would allow unlimited use of soy
in student meals. With soy added to hamburgers, tacos and lasagna, dieticians
can get the total fat content below 30 percent of calories, thereby conforming
to government dictates. "With the soy-enhanced food items, students are
receiving better servings of nutrients and less cholesterol and fat."
Soy milk has posted the biggest gains, soaring from $2
million in 1980 to $300 million in the US last year.10 Recent
advances in processing have transformed the gray, thin, bitter, beany-tasting
Asian beverage into a product that western consumers will accept—one that
tastes like a milk shake, but without the guilt.
Processing miracles, good packaging, massive advertising
and a marketing strategy that stresses the products' possible health benefits
account for increasing sales to all age groups. For example, reports that
soy helps prevent prostate cancer have made soy milk acceptable to middle-aged
men. "You don't have to twist the arm of a 55- to 60-year-old guy to get
him to try soy milk," says Mark Messina. Michael Milken, former junk bond
financier, has helped the industry shed its hippie image with well-publicized
efforts to consume 40 grams of soy protein daily. Now it's OK for stockbrokers
to eat soy.
America today, tomorrow the world. Soy milk sales are
rising in Canada, even though soy milk there costs twice as much as cow's
milk. Soybean milk processing plants are sprouting up in places like Kenya.11
Even China, where soy really is a poverty food and whose people want more
meat, not tofu, has opted to build western-style soy factories, rather
than develop western grasslands for grazing animals.12
Cinderella's Dark Side
The propaganda that has created the soy sales miracle
is all the more remarkable because only a few centuries ago the soybean
was considered unfit to eat—even in Asia. During the Chou Dynasty (1134
- 246 BC) the soybean was designated one of the five sacred grains, along
with barley, wheat, millet and rice. However, the pictograph for the soybean,
which dates from earlier times, indicates that it was not first used as
a food; for whereas the pictographs for the other four grains show the
seed and stem structure of the plant, the pictograph for the soybean emphasizes
the root structure. Agricultural literature of the period speaks frequently
of the soybean and its use in crop rotation. Apparently the soy plant
was initially used as a method of fixing nitrogen.13
The soybean did not serve as a food until the discovery
of fermentation techniques, sometime during the Chou Dynasty. The first
soy foods were fermented products like tempeh, natto, miso and
soy sauce. At a later date, possibly in the 2nd century B.C., Chinese
scientists discovered that a puree of cooked soybeans could be precipitated
with calcium sulfate or magnesium sulfate (plaster of Paris or Epsom salts)
to make a smooth pale curd—tofu or bean curd. The use of fermented and
precipitated soy products soon spread to other parts of the Orient, notably
Japan and Indonesia.
The Chinese did not eat unfermented soybeans as they
did other legumes such as lentils because the soybean contains large quantities
of natural toxins or "antinutrients." First among them are potent enzyme
inhibitors that block the action of trypsin and other enzymes needed for
protein digestion. These inhibitors are large, tightly-folded proteins
that retain their configuration even when heated for long periods of time.
They can produce serious gastric distress, reduced protein digestion and
chronic deficiencies in amino acid uptake. In test animals, diets high
in trypsin inhibitors cause enlargement and pathological conditions of
the pancreas, including cancer.14
Soybeans also contain hemagglutinin, a clot-promoting
substance that causes red blood cells to clump together.
Trypsin inhibitors and hemagglutinin are growth inhibitors—weanling
rats fed soy containing these antinutrients fail to grow normally. Growth
depressant compounds are deactivated during the process of fermentation,
so once the Chinese discovered how to ferment the soybean, they began
to incorporate small amounts of soy foods into their diets. In precipitated
products, enzyme inhibitors concentrate in the soaking liquid rather than
in the curd. Thus in tofu and bean curd, growth depressants are reduced
in quantity, but not completely eliminated.
Soy also contains goitrogens, substances that depress
thyroid function, a fact that has been known for at least 50 years.
Soybeans are high in phytic acid, present in the bran
or hulls of all seeds, a substance that can block the uptake of essential
minerals—calcium, magnesium, copper, iron and especially zinc—in the intestinal
tract. Although not a household word, phytic acid has been extensively
studied—there are literally hundreds of articles on the effects of phytic
acid in the scientific literature. Researchers are in general agreement
that grain- and legume-based diets high in phytates contribute to widespread
mineral deficiencies in Third World countries.15 Analysis shows
that calcium, magnesium, iron and zinc are present in the plant foods
eaten in these areas, but the high phytate content of soy- and grain-based
diets prevents their absorption.
The soybean has one of the highest phytate levels of
any grain or legume that has been studied16 and the phytates
in soy are highly resistant to normal phytate-reducing techniques, such
as long, slow cooking.17 Only a long period of fermentation
will significantly reduce the phytate content of soybeans. When precipitated
soy products like tofu are consumed with meat, the mineral blocking effects
of the phytates are reduced.18 The Japanese traditionally eat
a small amount of tofu or miso as part of a mineral-rich
fish broth, followed by a serving of meat or fish.
Vegetarians who consume tofu and bean curd as a substitute
for meat and dairy products risk severe mineral deficiencies. The results
of calcium, magnesium and iron deficiency are well known, those of zinc
are less so. Zinc is called the intelligence mineral because it is needed
for optimal development and functioning of the brain and nervous system.
It plays a role in protein synthesis and collagen formation; it is involved
in the blood sugar control mechanism and thus protects against diabetes;
it is needed for a healthy reproductive system. Zinc is a key component
in numerous vital enzymes and plays a role in the immune system. Phytates
found in soy products interfere with zinc absorption more completely than
with other minerals.19 Zinc deficiency can cause a "spacy"
feeling that some vegetarians may mistake for the "high" of spiritual
enlightenment.
Milk-drinking is given as the reason second generation
Japanese in America grow taller than their native ancestors. Some investigators
postulate that the reduced phytate content of the American diet—whatever
may be its other deficiencies—is the true explanation, pointing out that
both Asian and Western children who do not get enough meat and fish products
to counteract the effects of a high phytate diet frequently suffer rickets,
stunting and other growth problems.20
Soy Protein Isolate
Soy processors have worked hard to get these antinutrients
out of the finished product, particularly soy protein isolate (SPI), which
is the key ingredient in most soy foods that imitate meat and dairy products,
including baby formulas and some brands of soy milk. SPI is not something
you can make in your own kitchen. Production takes place in industrial
factories where a slurry of soy beans is first mixed with an alkaline
solution to remove fiber, then precipitated and separated using an acid
wash and finally neutralized in an alkaline solution. Acid washing in
aluminum tanks leaches high levels of aluminum into the final product.
The resultant curds are spray dried at high temperatures to produce a
high protein powder. A final indignity to the original soy bean is high-temperature,
high-pressure extrusion processing of soy protein isolate to produce textured
vegetable protein (TVP).
Much of the trypsin inhibitor content can be removed
through high-temperature processing, but not all. Trypsin inhibitor content
of soy protein isolate can vary as much as fivefold.21 (In
rats, even low-level-trypsin-inhibitor SPI feeding results in reduced
weight gain compared to controls.22) But high-temperature processing
has the unfortunate side effect of so denaturing the other proteins in
soy that they are rendered largely ineffective.23 That's why
animals on soy feed need lysine supplements for normal growth.
Nitrites, which are potent carcinogens, are formed during
spray drying, and a toxin called lysinoalanine is formed during alkaline
processing.24 Numerous artificial flavorings, particularly
MSG, are added to soy protein isolate and textured vegetable protein products
to mask their strong "beany" taste, and impart the flavor of meat.25
In feeding experiments, use of SPI increased requirements
for vitamins E, K, D and B12 and created deficiency symptoms of calcium,
magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, copper, iron and zinc.26
Phytic acid remaining in these soy products greatly inhibits zinc and
iron absorption; test animals fed SPI develop enlarged organs, particularly
the pancreas and thyroid gland, and increased deposition of fatty acids
in the liver.27 Yet soy protein isolate and textured vegetable
protein are used extensively in school lunch programs, commercial baked
goods, diet beverages and fast food products. They are heavily promoted
in Third World countries and form the basis of many food giveaway programs.
In spite of poor results in animal feeding trials, the
soy industry has sponsored a number of studies designed to show that soy
protein products can be used in human diets as a replacement for
traditional foods. An example is "Nutritional Quality of Soy Bean Protein
Isolates: Studies in Children of Preschool Age" sponsored by the Ralston
Purina Company.28 A group of Central American children suffering
from malnutrition was first stabilized and brought into better health
by feeding them native foods, including meat and dairy products. Then
for a two-week period these traditional foods were replaced by a drink
made of soy protein isolate and sugar. All nitrogen taken in and all nitrogen
excreted were measured in truly Orwellian fashion—the children were weighed
naked every morning and all excrement and vomit were gathered up for analysis.
The researchers found that the children retained nitrogen and that their
growth was "adequate," so the experiment was declared a success. Whether
the children were actually healthy on such a diet, or could remain so
over a long period, is another matter. The researchers noted that the
children vomited "occasionally," usually after finishing a meal; over
half suffered from periods of moderate diarrhea; some had upper respiratory
infections; and others suffered from rash and fever. It should be noted
that the researchers did not dare to use soy products to help children
recover from malnutrition, and were obliged to supplement the soy-sugar
mixture with nutrients largely absent in soy products, notably vitamins
A, D, B12, iron, iodine and zinc.
The FDA Health Claim
The best marketing strategy for a product that is inherently
unhealthy is, of course, a health claim. "The road to FDA approval was
long and demanding," writes a soy apologist, "consisting of a detailed
review of human clinical data collected from more than 40 scientific studies
conducted over the last 20 years. Soy protein was found to be one of the
rare foods that had sufficient scientific evidence not only to qualify
for an FDA health claim proposal but to ultimately pass the rigorous approval
process."29
The "long and demanding" road to FDA approval actually
took a few unexpected turns. The original petition, submitted by Protein
Technologies International (a division of Dupont), requested a health
claim for isoflavones, the estrogen-like compounds found plentifully in
soybeans, based on assertions that "only soy protein that has been processed
in a manner in which isoflavones are retained will result in cholesterol-lowering."
In 1998, the FDA made the unprecedented move of rewriting PTI's petition,
removing any reference to the phytoestrogens and substituting a claim
for soy protein, a move that was in direct contradiction to the agency's
regulations. The FDA is authorized to make rulings only on substances
presented by petition.
The abrupt change in direction was no doubt due to the
fact that a number of researchers, including scientists employed by the
US government, submitted documents indicating that isoflavones are toxic.
The FDA had also received, early in 1998, the final British government
report on phytoestrogens, which failed to find much evidence of benefit
and warned against potential adverse effects.30
Even with the change to soy protein isolate, FDA bureaucrats
engaged in the "rigorous approval process" were forced to deal nimbly
with concerns about mineral blocking effects, enzyme inhibitors, goitrogenicity,
endocrine disruption, reproductive problems and increased allergic reactions
from consumption of soy products.31 One of the strongest letters
of protest came from Dr. Dan Sheehan and Dr. Daniel Doerge, government
researchers at the National Center for Toxicological Research.32
Their pleas for warning labels were dismissed as unwarranted.
"Sufficient scientific evidence" of soy's cholesterol-lowering
properties is drawn largely from a 1995 meta-analysis by Dr. James Anderson,
sponsored by Protein Technologies International and published in the New
England Journal of Medicine.33 A meta-analysis is a review
and summary of the results of many clinical studies on the same subject.
Use of meta-analyses to draw general conclusions has come under sharp
criticism by members of the scientific community. "Researchers substituting
meta-analysis for more rigorous trials risk are making faulty assumptions
and indulging in creative accounting," says Sir John Scott, President
of the Royal Society of New Zealand. "Like is not being lumped with like.
Little lumps and big lumps of data are being gathered together by various
groups."34 There is the added temptation for researchers, particularly
researchers funded by a company like Protein Technologies International,
to leave out studies that would prevent the desired conclusions. Dr. Anderson
discarded eight studies for various reasons, leaving a remainder of 29.
The published report suggested that individuals with cholesterol levels
over 250 mg/dl would experience a "significant" reduction of 7 to 20 percent
in levels of serum cholesterol if they substituted soy protein for animal
protein. Cholesterol reduction was insignificantfor individuals
whose cholesterol was lower than 250 mg/dl. In other words, for most of
us, giving up steak and eating vegeburgers instead will not bring blood
cholesterol levels down. The health claim that the FDA approved "after
detailed review of human clinical data" fails to inform the consumer about
these important details.
Research that ties soy to positive effects on cholesterol
levels is "incredibly immature," said Ronald M. Krauss, MD, head of the
Molecular Medical Research Program and Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory.35
He might have added that studies in which cholesterol levels were lowered
either through diet or drugs have consistently resulted in a greater number
of deaths in the treatment groups than in controls, deaths from stroke,
cancer, intestinal disorders, accidents and suicide.36 Cholesterol
lowering measures in the US have fueled a sixty-billion-dollar-a-year
cholesterol-lowering industry but have not saved us from the ravages of
heart disease.
Soy and Cancer
The new FDA ruling does not allow any claims about cancer
prevention on food packages, but that has not restrained the industry
and its marketeers from making them in their promotional literature. "In
addition to protecting the heart," says a vitamin company brochure, "soy
has demonstrated powerful anticancer benefits. . . the Japanese, who eat
30 times as much soy as North Americans, have a lower incidence of cancers
of the breast, uterus and prostate."37
Indeed they do. But the Japanese, and Asians in general,
have much higher rates of other types of cancer, particularly cancer of
the esophagus, stomach, pancreas and liver.38 Asians throughout
the world also have high rates of thyroid cancer.39 The logic
that links low rates of reproductive cancers to soy consumption requires
attribution of high rates of thryoid and digestive cancers to the same
foods, particularly as soy causes these types of cancers in laboratory
rats.
Just how much soy do Asians eat? A 1998 survey found
that the average daily amount of soy consumed in Japan was about 8 grams
for men and 7 for women—less than two teaspoons.40 The famous
Cornell China Study, conducted by Colin T. Campbell, found that legume
consumption in China varied from 0 to 58 grams per day, with a mean of
about 12.41 Assuming that two-thirds of legume consumption
is soy, then the maximum consumption is about 40 grams or less than 3
tablespoons per day, with an average consumption of about 9 grams, less
than two teaspoons. A survey conducted in the 1930s found that soy foods
accounted for only 1.5 percent of calories in the Chinese diet, compared
with 65 percent of calories for pork.42 (Asians traditionally
cooked in lard, not vegetable oil!)
Traditionally fermented soy products make a delicious,
natural seasoning that may supply important nutritional factors in the
Asian diet. But except in times of famine, Asians consume soy products
only in small amounts as condiments, and not as a replacement for animal
foods—with one exception Celibate monks living in monasteries and leading
a vegetarian life style find soy foods quite helpful because they dampen
libido.
It was a 1994 meta-analysis by Mark Messina, published
in Nutrition and Cancer, that fueled speculation on soy's anticarcinogenic
properties.43 Messina noted that in 26 animal studies, 65 percent
reported protective effects from soy. He conveniently neglected to include
at least one study in which soy feeding caused pancreatic cancer, the
1985 study by Rackis.44 In the human studies he listed, the
results were mixed. A few showed some protective effect but most showed
no correlation at all between soy consumption and cancer rates.
". . the data in this review cannot be used as a basis
for claiming that soy intake decreases cancer risk," he concluded. Yet
in his subsequent book, The Simple Soybean and Your Health, Messina
makes just such a claim, recommending 1 cup or 230 grams of soy products
per day in his "optimal" diet as a way to prevent cancer.
Thousands of women are now consuming soy in the belief
that it protects them against breast cancer. Yet in 1996 researchers found
that women consuming soy protein isolate had an increased incidence of
epithelial hyperplasia, a condition that presages malignancies.45
A year later, dietary genistein was found to stimulate breast cells to
enter the cell cycle, a discovery that led the study authors to conclude
that women should not consume soy products to prevent breast cancer.46
Phytoestrogens—Panacea or Poison?
The male species of tropical birds carries the drab plumage
of the female at birth and "colors up" at maturity, somewhere between
nine and 24 months. In 1991, Richard and Valerie James, bird breeders
in Whangerai, New Zealand, purchased a new kind of feed for their birds,
one based largely on soy protein.47 When soy-based feed was
used, their birds "colored up" after just a few months. In fact, one bird
food manufacturer claimed that this early development was an advantage
imparted by the feed. A 1992 ad for Roudybush feed formula showed a picture
of the male crimson rosella, an Australian parrot that acquires beautiful
red plummage at 18 to 24 months, already brightly colored at 11 weeks
old.
Unfortunately, in the ensuing years, there was decreased
fertility in the birds with precocious maturation, deformed, stunted and
still-born babies, and premature deaths, especially among females, with
the result that the total population in the avaries went into steady decline.
The birds suffered beak and bone deformities, goitre, immune system disorders
and pathological aggressive behavior. Autopsy revealed digestive organs
in a state of disintegration. The list of problems corresponded with many
of the problems the Jameses had encountered in their two children, who
had been fed soy-based infant formula.
Startled, aghast, angry. . . the Jameses hired toxicologist
Mike Fitzpatrick to investigate further. Dr. Fitzpatrick's literature
review uncovered evidence that soy consumption has been linked to numerous
disorders, including infertility, increased cancer and infantile leukemia;
and, in studies dating back to the 1950s48, that genistein
in soy causes endocrine disruption in animals. Dr. Fitzpatrick also analyzed
the bird feed and found that it contained high levels of phytoestrogens,
especially genistein. When the Jameses discontinued using soy-based feed,
the flock gradually returned to normal breeding habits and behavior.
The Jameses embarked on a private crusade to warn the
public and government officials about toxins in soy foods, particularly
the endocrine-disrupting isoflavones (genistein and diadzen.) Protein
Technologies International received their material in 1994.
In 1991, Japanese researchers reported that consumption
of as little as 30 grams or 2 tablespoons of soybeans per day for only
one month resulted in a significant increase in thyroid stimulating hormone.49
Diffuse goitre and hypothyroidism appeared in some of the subjects and
many complained of constipation, fatigue and lethargy, even though their
intake of iodine was adequate. In 1997, researchers from the FDA's National
Center for Toxicological Research made the embarrassing discovery that
the goitrogenic components of soy were the very same isoflavones.50
Twenty-five grams of soy protein isolate, the minimum
amount PTI claimed to have cholesterol-lowering effects, contains at least
50 mg of isoflavones. It took only 45 mg daily of isoflavones in premenopausal
women to exert significant biological effects including reduction in hormones
needed for adequate thyroid function. These effects lingered for three
months after soy consumption was discontinued.51
One hundred grams of soy protein, the maximum suggested
cholesterol-lowering dose (and the amount recommended by Protein Technologies
International), can contain almost 600 mg of isoflavones,52
an amount that is undeniably toxic. In 1992, the Swiss health service
estimated that 100 grams of soy protein provided the estrogenic equivalent
of the pill.53
In vitro studies suggest that isoflavones inhibit
synthesis of estradiol and other steroid hormones.54 Reproductive
problems, infertility, thyroid disease and liver disease due to dietary
intake of isoflavones have been observed for several species of animals
including mice, cheetah, quail, pigs, rats, sturgeon and sheep.55
It is the isoflavones in soy that are said to have a
favorable effect on postmenopausal symptoms, including hot flashes and
protection from osteoporosis. Quantification of discomfort from hot flashes
is extremely subjective and most studies show that control subjects report
reduction in discomfort in amounts equal to subjects given soy.56
The claim that soy prevents osteoporosis is extraordinary,
given that soy foods block calcium and cause vitamin D deficiencies. If
Asians indeed have lower rates of osteoporosis than Westerners, it is
probably because their diet provides plenty of vitamin D from shrimp,
lard and sea food; and plenty of calcium from bone broths. The likely
reason that Westerners have such high rates of osteoporosis is because
they have substituted soy oil for butter, which is a traditional source
of vitamin D and other fat-soluble activators needed for calcium absorption.
Birth Control Pills for Babies
But it was the isoflavones in infant formula that gave
the Jameses the most cause for concern. In 1998, investigators reported
that the daily exposure of infants to isoflavones in soy infant formula
is 6 to 11 times higher on a body weight basis than the dose that has
hormonal effects in adults consuming soy foods. Circulating concentrations
of isoflavones in infants fed soy-based formula were 13,000 to 22,000
times higher than plasma estradiol concentrations in infants on cows milk
formula.57
Approximately 25 percent of bottle-fed children in the
US receive soy-based formula--a much higher percentage than in other parts
of the Western world. Fitzpatrick estimated that an infant exclusively
fed soy formula receives the estrogenic equivalent (based on body weight)
of at least five birth control pills per day.58 By contrast,
almost no phytoestrogens have been detected in dairy-based infant formula
or in human milk, even when the mother consumes soy products.
Scientists have known for years that soy-based formula
can cause thyroid problems in babies. But what are the effects of soy
products on the hormonal development of the infant, both male and female?
Male infants undergo a "testosterone surge" during the
first few months of life, when testosterone levels may be as high as those
of an adult male. During this period, the infant is programed to express
male characteristics after puberty, not only in the development of his
sexual organs and other masculine physical traits, but also in setting
patterns in the brain characteristic of male behavior. In monkeys, deficiency
of male hormones impairs the development of spatial perception (which,
in humans, is normally more acute in men than in women), of learning ability
and of visual discrimination tasks (such as would be required for reading.)59
It goes without saying that future patterns of sexual orientation may
also be influenced by the early hormonal environment. Male children exposed
during gestation to diethylstilbesterol (DES), a synthetic estrogen that
has effects on animals similar to those of phytoestrogens from soy, had
testes smaller than normal on maturation.60
Learning disabilities and behavioral problems, especially
in male children, have reached epidemic proportions in the US. Soy infant
feeding—which began in earnest in the early 1970s—cannot be ignored as
a probable cause for these tragic developments. As for girls, an alarming
number are entering puberty much earlier than normal, according to a recent
study reported in the journal Pediatrics.61 Investigators
found that one percent of all girls now show signs of puberty, such as
breast development or pubic hair, before the age of three; by age eight,
14.7 percent of white girls and almost 50 percent of African-American
girls had one or both of these characteristics. New data indicate that
environmental estrogens such as PCBs and DDE (a breakdown product of DDT)
may cause early sexual development in girls.62 In the 1986
Puerto Rico Premature Thelarche study, the most significant dietary association
with premature sexual development was not chicken—as reported in the press—but
soy infant formula.63 The Woman, Infants and Children (WIC)
program, which supplies free infant formula to welfare mothers, stresses
soy formula for African Americans because they are supposedly allergic
to milk.
The consequences of truncated childhood are tragic. Young
girls with mature bodies must cope with feelings and urges that most children
are not well-equipped to handle. And early maturation in girls is frequently
a harbinger for problems with the reproductive system later in life including
failure to menstruate, infertility and breast cancer.
Parents who have contacted the Jameses recount other
problems associated with children of both sexes who were fed soy-based
formula including extreme emotional behavior, asthma, immune system problems,
pituitary insufficiency, thyroid disorders and irritable bowel syndrome—the
same endocrine and digestive havoc that afflicted the Jameses' parrots.
Dissention in the Ranks
Organizers of the Third International Soy Symposium would
be hard pressed to call the conference an unqualified success. On the
second day of the conference the London-based Food Commission and the
Weston A Price Foundation of Washington, DC held a joint press conference
in the same hotel to present concerns about soy infant formula. Industry
representatives sat stony faced through the recitation of potential dangers
and a plea from concerned scientists and parents to pull soy-based infant
formula from the market. Under pressure from the Jameses, the New Zealand
government had issued a health warning about soy infant formula in 1998.
It was time for the American government to do the same.
On the last day of the conference, presentations on new
findings related to toxicity sent a well-oxygenated chill through the
industry's giddy helium hype. Dr. Lon White reported on a study of Japanese
Americans living in Hawaii. It showed a significant statistical relationship
between two or more servings of tofu per week and "accelerated brain aging."64
Those participants who consumed tofu in mid life had lower cognitive function
in late life and a greater incidence of Alzheimers and dementia. "What's
more," said Dr. White, "those who ate a lot of tofu, by the time they
were 75 or 80, looked five years older."65 White and his colleagues
blamed the negative effects on isoflavones, a finding that supports an
earlier study in which post-menopausal women with higher levels of circulating
estrogen experienced greater cognitive decline.66
Scientists Daniel Sheehan and Daniel Doerge from the
National Center for Toxicological Research ruined PTI's day by presenting
findings from rat feeding studies indicating that genistein in soy foods
causes irreversible damage to enzymes that synthesize thryoid hormones.67
"The association between soybean consumption and goiter in animals and
humans has a long history," wrote Dr. Doerge. "Current evidence for the
beneficial effects of soy requires a full understanding of potential adverse
effects as well."
Dr. Claude Hughes reported that rats born to mothers
fed genistein had decreased birth weights compared to controls and onset
of puberty occurred earlier in male offspring.68 His research
suggested that the effects observed in rats " . . . will be at least somewhat
predictive of what occurs in humans. There is no reason to assume that
there will be gross malformations of fetuses but there may be subtle changes,
such as neurobehavioral attributes, immune function and sex hormone levels."
The results, he said " . . . could be nothing or could be something of
great concern.. . if mom is eating something that can act like sex hormones,
it is logical to wonder if that could change the baby's development."69
A study of babies born to vegetarian mothers, published
in January 2000, indicated just what those changes in baby's development
might be. Mothers who ate a vegetarian diet during pregnancy had a fivefold
greater risk of delivering a boy with hypospadias, a birth defect of the
penis.70 The authors of the study suggested that the cause
was greater exposure to phytoestrogens in soy foods popular with vegetarians.
Problems with female offspring of vegetarian mothers are more likely to
show up later in life. While soy's estrogenic effect is less than that
of diethylstilbestrol (DES), the dose is likely to be higher because it's
consumed as a food, not taken as a drug. Daughters of women who took DES
during pregnancy suffered from infertility and cancer when they reached
their twenties.
GRAS Status
Lurking in the background of industry hoop-la for soy
is the nagging question of whether it's even legal to add soy protein
isolate to food. All food additives not in common use prior to 1958, including
casein protein from milk, must have GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe)
status. In 1972, the Nixon administration directed a reexamination of
substances believed to be GRAS in the light of any scientific information
then available. This reexamination included casein protein which became
codified as GRAS in 1978. In 1974, the FDA obtained a literature review
of soy protein because, as soy protein had not been used in food until
1959 and was not even in common use in the early 1970s, it was not eligible
to have its GRAS status grandfathered under the provisions of the Food,
Drug and Cosmetic Act.71
The scientific literature up to 1974 recognized many
antinutrients in factory-made soy protein, including trypsin inhibitors,
phytic acid, and genistein. But the FDA literature review dismissed discussion
of adverse impacts with the statement that it was important for "adequate
processing" to remove them. Genistein could be removed with an alcohol
wash but it was an expensive procedure that processors avoided. Later
studies determined that trypsin inhibitor content could be removed only
with long periods of heat and pressure, but the FDA has imposed no requirements
for manufacturers to do so.
The FDA was more concerned about toxins formed during
processing, specifically nitrites and lysinoalanine.72 Even
at low levels of consumption—averaging one-third of a gram per day at
the time—the presence of these carcinogens was considered too great a
threat to public health to allow GRAS status. Soy protein did have approval
for use as a binder in cardboard boxes and this approval was allowed to
continue because researchers considered that migration of nitrites from
the box into the food contents would be too small to constitute a cancer
risk. FDA officials called for safety specifications and monitoring procedures
before granting of GRAS status for food. These were never performed. To
this day, use of soy protein is codified as GRAS only for limited industrial
use as a cardboard binder.
This means that soy protein must be subject to premarket
approval procedures each time manufacturers intend to use it as a food
or add it to a food. Soy protein was introduced into infant formula in
the early 1960s. It was a new product with no history of any use at all.
As soy protein did not have GRAS status, premarket approval was required.
This was not and still has not been granted. The key ingredient of soy
infant formula is not recognized as safe.
The Next Asbestos?
"Against the backdrop of widespread praise. . . there
is growing suspicion that soy—despite its undisputed benefits—may pose
some health hazards," writes Marian Burros, a leading food writer for
the New York Times. More than any other writer, Ms. Burros' endorsement
of a lowfat, largely vegetarian diet has herded Americans into supermarket
aisles featuring soy foods. Yet her January 26, 2000 article "Doubts Cloud
Rosy News on Soy" contains the following alarming statement: "Not one
of the 18 scientists interviewed for this column was willing to say that
taking isoflavones was risk free." Ms. Burros did not enumerate the risks,
nor did she mention that the recommended 25 daily grams of soy protein
contain enough isoflavones to cause problems in sensitive individuals,
but it was evident that the industry had recognized the need to cover
itself.
Because the industry is extremely exposed. Contingency
lawyers will soon discover that the number of potential plaintiffs can
be counted in the millions and the pockets are very, very deep. Juries
will hear something like the following: "The industry has known for years
that soy contains many toxins. At first they told the public that the
toxins were removed by processing. When it became apparent that processing
could not get rid of them, they claimed that these substances were beneficial.
Your government granted a health claim to a substance that is poisonous
and the industry lied to the public to sell more soy."
The "industry" includes merchants, manufacturers, scientists,
publicists, bureaucrats, former bond financiers, food writers, vitamin
companies and retail stores. Farmers will probably escape because they
were duped like the rest of us. But they need to find something else to
grow before the soy bubble bursts and the market collapses—grass-fed livestock,
designer vegetables. . . or hemp to make paper for thousands and thousands
of legal briefs.

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About the
Authors
Sally Fallon is the author of Nourishing Traditions: The Cookbook
that Challenges Politically Correct Nutrition and the Diet Dictocrats,
Second Edition 1999 (New Trends Publishing 877-707-1776 or 219-268-2601)
and President of the Weston A Price Foundation, Washington, DC, www.WestonAPrice.org
Mary G. Enig, PhD is the author of Know Your Fats:
The Complete Primer for Understanding the Nutrition of Fats, Oils and
Cholesterol 2000 (www.BethesdaPress.com),
President of the Maryland Nutritionists Association and Vice President
of the Weston A Price Foundation, Washington, DC
The authors wish to thank Mike Fitzpatrick, PhD and Valerie
& Richard James for their help in preparing this article.
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