Page 59 - Spring2009

“sids”—the inner husks of the oats to which some out a fine pudding.” The best
of the nutritious kernel would adhere. From these Ubiquitous oats were prepared in many
sids an ancient Celtic dish called sowans”(or ways, and many of them deceptively simple. “The oatmeal is
sowens) was made. ancient way of dressing corn [grain],” writes well-ripened
The sids were soaked in water for approxi- Martin Martin circa 1695 in A Description of on the stalk,
mately one week (or even more) until they were the Western Isles of Scotland, “which is yet used
well soured. The liquid was then poured off and in several Isles is called Graddan, from the Irish dried by
reserved, the sids squeezed to extract the last bits word Grad, which signifies quick. . . . A Woman sunshine and,
of goodness, and then discarded. The reserved sitting down, takes a handful of Corn [sheaf of if necessary,
liquid would sit another two days, collecting as grain, in this case oats], holding it by the Stalks
sediment at the bottom of the vessel. McNeill in her left hand, and then sets fire to the Ears, in the gentle
comments that this sediment “contains practi- which are presently in flame; she has a Stick in warmth of
cally all the nutritious properties of the oatmeal her right hand, which she manages very dexter- a small kiln,
in its most easily digested form. When required ously, beating off the Grain at the very Instant,
for use, pour off all of the clear liquid (swats) when the Husk is quite burnt, for if she miss of and ground
and put some of the sediment (sowans) into a that, she must use the Kiln, but experience taught between two

saucepan, allowing a gill [five ounces] for each them this Art to perfection. The Corn may be so honest
person, with two gills of water and salt to taste. dressed, winnowed, ground and baked within
Bring to the boil, stirring continuously, and cook an Hour after reaping from the Ground. The mill-stones.
gently for ten minutes or longer, until thick and Oatbread dressed as above is Loosening, and that
creamy. Serve like porridge, in wooden bowls or dressed in the Kiln is Astringent, and of greater
deep plates, with cream or rich milk.” strength for laborers: but they love the Graddan,
In his 1904 work Scottish Life and Charac- as being more agreeable to their taste.”
ter, William Sanderson quotes an Englishman’s
impression of sowans to his friends after his THE KAIL YARD
return south: “The lady of the house boiled some “As oats and barley were the staple grains,”
dirty water, and by the blessing of God it came McNeill explains, “so kail [kale] was long the

PORRIDGE
The following instructions for “the one and only” oat porridge, from The Scots Kitchen, are wonderful to contemplate
if only for the theatricality of the ritual!

“The halesome parritch, chief o’ Scotia’s food.” –Robert Burns
(The One and Only Method)
Oatmeal, salt, water
“It is advisable to keep a goblet [cast iron cooking pot] exclusively for porridge.
Allow for each person one breakfastcupful of water, a handful of oatmeal (about an ounce and a quarter), and a small
saltspoon of salt. Use fresh spring water and be particular about the quality of the oatmeal. Midlothian oats are reputed
to be unsurpassed, but the small Highland oats are very sweet.
Bring the water to the boil and as soon as it reaches boiling-point add the oatmeal, letting it fall in a steady rain from
the left hand and stirring it briskly the while with the right, sunwise, or the right-hand turn for luck—and convenience. A
porridge-stick, called a spurtle, and in some parts a theevil, or, as in Shetland, a gruel-tree, is used for this purpose. Be
careful to avoid lumps, unless the children clamour for them. When the porridge is boiling steadily, draw the mixture to
the side and put on the lid. Let it cook for from twenty to thirty minutes according to the quality of the oatmeal, and do
not add the salt, which has a tendency to harden the meal and prevent its swelling, until it has cooked for at least ten
minutes. On the other hand, never cook porridge without salt. Ladle straight into cold porringers or soup-plates and serve
with individual bowls of cream, or milk, or buttermilk. Each spoonful of porridge, which should be very hot, is dipped in
the cream or milk, which should be quite cold, before it is conveyed to the mouth.”
The traditional Scots seasoning for porridge is only salt; sugar, as used by the English, was early on considered “deplor-
able.”

SPRING 2009 Wise Traditions 57