Page 84 - Summer2008
P. 84

7 -8 ounces each) is to pound 6-7 cloves of garlic     It will help to become accustomed to using
                              in a mortar with fresh thyme, marjoram, pepper  lower oven and stovetop temperatures. A matter
                              corns, a dab of coarse prepared mustard, and a  of a few degrees and a minute or two can mean
                              couple of tablespoons of raw olive oil to achieve  the difference between perfectly juicy, tender
                              a paste the consistency of thick mayonnaise. I  meat and a dried out, cardboard-like failure for
                              coat the steaks with this herb paste, cover loosely  dry heat methods. Very low temperatures used
                              and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours. Not only the  in moist-heat methods give you more leeway, but
                              refrigerator, but your whole kitchen will smell  careful monitoring is still the watchword.
                              of this wonderful concoction, which is part of     Learn where cuts come from on the animal.

                              the pleasure. I let the steaks nish marinating at  Useful charts can be found in numerous cook-
                              room temperature for about eight hours before  books to help you understand what sort of muscle
                              cooking them over a wood re. Many home  meat you have and which method (dry or moist

                              experiments have proved that the herb paste ap-  heat) will produce the most satisfactory results.
                              plication produces more tender steaks than meat  If you can imagine a steer grazing on pasture in
                              merely thawed in the refrigerator overnight and  your mind’s eye, you will see that the parts of the
                              promptly cooked the next day.              body doing the most work are the neck, shoulders
                                                                         and legs. Chuck, shoulder and blade cuts come
                              KEYS TO PREPARING GRASSFED BEEF            from the shoulder portion and are tough as they
                                   There are a few basic principles to keep in  contain quite a bit of connective tissue that must
                              mind when preparing grassfed beef, and these  be cooked long enough to dissolve into gelatin.
                              are primarily dependent upon how long or how  This is also true for the arm, shank and brisket
                              well the meat has been aged, the fat content of  cuts. All of these cuts will bene t from moist-
                              the meat, and the type of muscle you will be  heat cooking methods, such as gentle stewing,
                              cooking. The cook can decide whether to age  braising and pot roasting.
                              the meat further in the kitchen, or to employ a     The parts that “ride” the steer and do the
                              mechanical means to tenderize the meat (more  least amount of work are the ribs along the back
                              about this later on). Since fat is an insulator and  and the loin area, and represent a limited amount
           Many home          most grassfed beef is fairly lean, the meat will  of such tender meat on each animal. Prime rib
                              cook more quickly than “conventional” beef al-
                                                                         or rib steaks are cut from this portion, with loin,
           experiments        most regardless of the cut, and one must always  tenderloin and T-bone cuts following along the
           have proved        be aware of this limiting factor. Also, depending  back. Dry-heat methods such as frying, broiling

          that the herb       on the animal and the age when it was nished,  or grilling can be used with these cuts, again,
                              cuts from different animals can vary quite a bit  always with an eye for the light touch. Sirloin
                    paste     in size, which will of course change their cooking  cuts come from the edge of the loin cuts just
             application      requirements. This means it is less important for  before the rump, where round, leg and rump
               produces       you to try to time your recipes than to carefully  cuts are found. These cuts will require careful
                              check on the meat’s progress by monitoring its  preparation because even though they contain
           more tender        internal temperature and know when to halt the  less connective tissue than the beef shoulder,
             steaks than      cooking process. Purchasing a good quality meat  they also contain less intramuscular fat, and so

           meat merely        thermometer is an excellent way to improve your  will be less succulent than properly prepared
                              outcome as you learn just how quickly meats can  shoulder cuts.
                  thawed      reach doneness.                                 This recipe for Super-Slow-Roasted Beef
                    in the         An internal temperature of 120° is rare;  from Shannon Hayes’s Grassfed Gourmet is

             refrigerator     125°-130°F medium rare—and most grassfed  an excellent example of careful use of heat to
                              beef will taste best and be at its juiciest and most  produce a succulent result. Note that the long
               overnight      tender when cooked to no more than rare or me-  time spent at very low temperatures means that
          and promptly        dium rare. Be aware, too, that meat continues to  the aging enzymes in the meat will be working
             cooked the       cook even when removed from the heat source.  their magic in tenderizing the meat for several
                              It is wise to stop the cooking just short (10° or  hours. I include her useful prefatory comments:
               next day.      so) of your desired temperature.           “Nothing beats super-slow roasting for turning
         82                                         Wise Traditions                               SUMMER 2008
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