Page 81 - Summer2008

fattened animal spared the usual work of the actually account for a much smaller variation in meat tenderness—as little
farmstead. These two methods of meat produc- as 10 percent in some food science estimations—and is not necessarily
tion and preparation existed side by side until the best predictor of meat quality. More important factors affecting the
about the time of the Industrial Revolution when tenderness of meat concern the complex interplay of factors that occur
draft animals eventually became obsolete, the around the time of slaughter, and include stress before and at the time of
rise in urban populations led to greater demands killing, and how the meat is handled after slaughter (the aging process).
for meat, and a mass-scale, centralized means to Even the tenderest cuts on an animal can end up tough due to stress
provide it was developed. Mass production favors at the time of slaughter. The most humane methods of slaughter will, for-
immature animals because of its economies of tunately, produce the best results in the meat. Why this is so depends upon
scale—the imperative is to produce the most understanding the relationship of glycogen and lactic acid to pH decline
meat at minimum cost. Commercially raised (rise in acidity) in meat after slaughter. An animal that has not been stressed
beef in the U.S. for the last several decades has will have normal levels of stored energy, or glycogen in its body. When

sacriced avor and texture, as well as many the animal is slaughtered and bled, the metabolic processes continue for
important health bonuses, for the specious goal a time, however there is no longer circulating oxygen. Without the pres-

of “greater efciency” that concentrated grain- ence of oxygen, the breakdown of glycogen/glucose results in a buildup of
feeding appears to provide. lactic acid which then causes a rise in the acidity of the meat. This acidity
normally helps retard growth of microorganisms after slaughter, and sets
THE TENDERNESS CONTROVERSY the stage for the aging process to begin properly.
What creates tenderness in beef and what If, on the other hand, the animal has used up its glycogen stores
makes meat tough? We’ve mentioned some of before slaughter because of the trauma of physical crowding, transport
the contributing factors, such as breed, type of stress, rough handling or fear, the pH in the meat may not drop quickly
forage, exercise and age of the animal. There is enough after slaughter because not enough lactic acid can be produced.
also the long-held belief that fat marbling is es- In this case the meat will be very dry, tough and dark in color, and will
sential for tenderness, but visible marbling may be more susceptible to spoiling and contamination.

GETTING THE FAT BACK INTO GRASS-FED BEEF

One of the most unfortunate beliefs among proponents of grassfed beef is the notion that grass-fed beef is good because
it is lean. Many a consumer has bitten into a lean grass-fed steak or hamburger with great anticipation, only to be sworn
off beef altogether because this so-called healthy beef is dry and tasteless.
Many of the benefits of grass-feeding are concentrated in the fat, including fat-soluble vitamins, CLA and minerals. The
fat of grass-fed beef is actually more saturated than the fat of grain-fed animals, and this is a good thing, because saturated
fat supports a myriad of biochemical processes in the body. After all, if we are imitating the practices of Native Americans,
we should surely honor their one food-combining rule: they never ate lean meat. Native Americans hunted fat animals
preferentially and saved all the fat from the back, hump and cavity, often throwing excess lean meat away.
Here are some pointers for getting nutritious fat back into grass-fed beef:

 Encourage your farmer to graze on mature, overgrown pasture with lots of natural seedheads. (See sidebar on page
78.)
 Be willing to pay the price for meat from older, fatter animals.
 When ordering beef from your butcher, stipulate that none of the fat be cut off the steaks and roasts. The goal is about
one-half inch of fat on a rib roast and around steaks.
 Stipulate ground beef with 30 percent fat by volume.
 A layer of fat taken from the back or interior of the animal should be wrapped and tied around lean roasts. (See page
390 of the 1964 edition of The Joy of Cooking for guidance.)
 When stewing cuts of lean meat, layer them with pieces of fat, fatback or bacon, or brown them first in a goodly amount
of fat.
 For lean roasts, use a larding needle to insert small pieces of pork fat throughout the roast.
 For roasts, make gravy with all the fat that drips into the pan or save and use the fat for frying other foods.
 When ordering a steak in the restaurant, always insist on seeing the piece of meat before it is prepared, and be willing
to choose something else (or even walk out!) if they have committed the crime of limiting patrons to beef that is too
lean.
SUMMER 2008 Wise Traditions 79