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Early photos      many years, but required burning to maintain  berries were gathered in substantial quantities
                   show large,      their quality and quantity each year. The late  and often dried and stored for winter use. Fruits
                                    Rosalie Bethel, North Fork Mono, remembers,  such as huckleberries (Vaccinium), gooseberry
                concentrated        “They used to burn for the clovers. It would in-  (Ribes), sourberry (Rhus trilobata), wild grape
                    patches of      crease the quality—the clovers would be young  (Vitis californica), wild strawberries (Fragaria),
                     accessible     and tender and increase in amount.” Clovers (Tri-  blackberries, thimbleberries, blackcap raspber-
                                    folium) were perhaps more widely eaten than any  ries (Rubus), holly leaf cherry (Prunus ilicifolia),
                  berries from      other greens, and were eaten fresh or steamed,  elderberry (Sambucus mexicana), and many oth-

                    which one       or dried and stored for use in the off-seasons for  ers were valued. The medicinal values of these
                 could gather       making soups. The Choinumne pulled up hand-  fruits—the elderberry for example—“were well-
                                    fuls of the tender first clover, rolled them into  known to our ancestors,” writes Rhonda Robles,
                 much fruit in      balls between the palms of their hands and put  Ajachmem.
                                                                                        4
                 a short time.      them into their mouths. After thoroughly chew-     Fruits are used to make beverages such
                                    ing the clover-balls, they added salt by sucking  as the sour fizzy drink made from sourberry
                                    on a length of saltgrass (Distichlis spicata).   favored by the Sierra Miwok in hot weather.
                                                                               The drink with the most widespread use, still
                                    FRUITS                                     popular today, is made from crushed manzanita
                                        Many native fleshy fruits and berries were  fruit. Thomas Jefferson Mayfield, writing of his
                                    available to California Indians and these plants  youth with the Choinumne in the 1850s, says,
                                    responded to their management; early photo-  “A sweet cider was made from the juice of the
                                    graphs show large, concentrated patches of  manzanita berries. They were crushed in mortars
                                    accessible berries from which one could gather  and set in wicker colanders to drain into baskets.
                                    much fruit in a short time. Such fleshy fruits or  A little water was added to the crushed berries.
                                                                               This made a sweet and well-flavored cider, and
                                                                               I remember it with more relish than anything I
                                                                               ever ate or drank with the Indians.”  With over
                                                                                                             1
                                                                               fifty species of manzanita native to California's
                                                                               varied landscape, tribes had their own favored
                                                                               local ciders, each reflecting its own particular
                                                                               terroir.

                                                                               FUNGI
                                                                                  Throughout the year mushrooms provided
                                                                               an important accompaniment to acorn, venison,
                                                                               elk-meat, fish and other dishes. Some California
                                                                               tribes gathered at least nine or ten different
                                                                               kinds, considering them a staple food. Varieties
                                                                               included chanterelles, morels, boletes, corals,
                                                                               puffballs and other soil-growing fungi. Others,
                                                                               such as willow or oyster mushrooms and giant
                                                                               sawtooths, were cut or torn from the trunks or
                                                                               branches of live and dead trees and then dried
                                                                               in large quantities.

                                                                               ANIMAL FOODS IN MANAGED
                                                                               LANDSCAPES
                                    Figure 3. In addition to burning oak woodlands      Animal foods were an essential part of the
                                    and grasslands, California Indian women saved
                                    edible seeds of wildflowers and grains of grasses   diet for California's first peoples; the diversity
                                    and sowed them in appropriate habitats to ensure   of animal foods incorporated into this diet again
                                    future harvests.                           reflects an in-depth knowledge of and participa-
               34                                         Wise Traditions                                    FALL 2012                   FALL 2012                                  Wise Traditions





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