Page 49 - Spring2008

Eating by the

Seasons in Russia

By Katherine Czapp

ike all great national cuisines, the Russian tradition
developed as a unique response to its climate, geogra-
Lphy and history. Over the centuries its culinary rich-
ness evolved as it absorbed and then transformed the infl uences

brought by trade with Western Europe and the Orient, as well as
through foreign invasion and its own territorial expansion. The
highly sophisticated cuisine of the 17th and 18th centuries, with
its elaborate courses, ornate table service, and exotic imported

delicacies existed only for a rare few—the landed aristocracy
and wealthiest city dwellers. The bulk of Russia’s population was
scattered across a vast terrain in tiny villages, isolated by great
distances, and feeding themselves from their own small farms and

the forests, rivers and lakes nearby. Challenged by a harsh and

often fickle northern climate, yet endowed with a creative native
ingenuity, these peasants created a “cuisine of the people” out of
simple ingredients that was nevertheless nourishing, appealing

and enduring. With some additions and refinements, this peasant
cuisine became the solid basis of Russian cooking up until the
twentieth century.

SPRING 2008 Wise Traditions 49