Page 43 - Fall2012

cinogen. The MIT study involved direct feeding widely, with different choices and concentrations There is
of nitrite to laboratory rats and later studies did of spices, sodium nitrite and sometimes sodium
not support the headline-making conclusion that nitrate. The USDA now recommends that pro- probably
nitrite induces cancer. The USDA’s concern then cessors not add sodium nitrate because it is not nothing
shifted to the formation of nitrosamines from necessary and the conversion of nitrate to nitrite wrong with
nitrite combining with the amines available in is variable and somewhat unpredictable.
meat, with regulators weighing the possible risk a good old-
of cancer against nitrite’s traditional and well- FAT IN THE FEEDS fashioned
proven role protecting us from botulism and other From the WAPF point of view, the most in- bacon cured
forms of food poisoning. 42 teresting and helpful findings concern the effect
Since then commercial bacon has been heav- of fatty acid composition on nitrosamine forma- with a precise
ily studied and subject to regulatory monitoring tion. After all, factory-farmed pigs routinely eat amount of
of nitrosamine levels. Although nitrosamines feeds that include soy, corn and other inferior oils sodium nitrite
have been found in many cured meats, they while pastured pigs generally consume a more
are most consistently found in fried bacon. 43-50 nutritious mix, often soy-free and in the best curing salts.
A look at the research, however, shows it to be circumstances based on whey. In 1984, research-
inconsistent, contradictory and confusing. ers discovered that bacon from pigs fed corn oil-
Over the years, most scientists have blamed supplemented diets contains significantly higher
the nitrosamines on frying although some data levels of the nitrosamines n-nitrosopyrrolidine
suggest nitrosamines can be produced as an ar- and n-nitrosodimethylamine compared to con-
tifact during the analytical procedure whenever trols. They also reported that bacon from pigs fed
residual nitrite is present. Wood smoke has a coconut fat-supplemented diet contains signifi-
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also been blamed though the culprit might actu- cantly lower levels of n-nitrosopyrrolidine but no
ally be “liquid smoke.” In 1973, the Canadian significant difference in n-nitrosodimethylamine
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Department of Agriculture found preformed levels compared to controls.
nitrosamines in the readymade spice mixes Given that the controls were fed a standard
favored by Big Ag bacon processors as well as commercial corn and soy-based diet supple-
many of the smaller producers. After the USDA mented with vitamins and minerals, we can only
confirmed the Canadian findings, regulators wonder what might be found with bacon sourced
made these spice mixes illegal. The USDA also from optimally nourished, pastured pigs. Be that
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soon required the use of sodium erytrobates and/ as it may, one of the researchers’ conclusions is
or ascorbates in bacon processing after consistent telling: “Fatty acid analyses of the adipose tissue
research findings indicated these substances of the bacon samples indicated that n-nitrosopyr-
pushed nitrosamine levels way down. rolidine levels in bacon correlated well with the
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Obviously some of the nitrosamine problem degree of unsaturation of the adipose tissue.”
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stems from industrial processing. The USDA Other research supports the connection between
may have outlawed certain spice mixes back in nitrosamine formation and the fatty acid profiles
the 1970s, but preformed nitrosamines might of animal feed and meat. Nitrosamines show up
well exist in the latest generation of artificial and more frequently in the fat than in the lean. 57-59
“natural” flavorings and “liquid smokes.” Also The takeaway is clear: choose bacon from
worrisome are references to “meat batters” and pastured pigs. That said, finding genuine, tradi-
to high pressure, high temperature processing tionally cured artisanal bacon is very difficult.
methods known to produce nitrosamines and Many artisanal farmers do produce their
routinely used to produce commercial bacon. bacon using the dry salt way without added
Choosing dry cured or “country style” bacon nitrites, relying on salt, good sanitary practices
made by small producers would seem to be a and refrigeration to prevent contamination. Most
safer option, but in some instances might gen- “no added nitrate or nitrates” products are honest
erate even higher levels of n-nitrosopyrrolidine compared to the newfangled celery salt “un-
(NPYR) after frying compared to pump-cured cured” bacons, and are obviously far healthier
bacon. The problem is processing methods vary than supermarket pumped and plumped bacon-
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