Page 42 - Fall2012

be added as a salt. Indeed, “nitrite-free” bacon nitrosamines.
can have twice the nitrite content of bacon cured Traditional producers leave the bacon to
directly with nitrite salts. “Some convert 40 cure for anywhere from a day to a month before
percent, some convert 90 percent, so the consis- slow-smoking it over applewood, hickory or other
tency of the residual nitrite is highly variable,” wood fires, generally from one to three days.
Dr. Bryan says. Yet his biggest concern is not The extended curing time intensifies the pork
nitrite content but the possibility of bacterial flavor and shrinks the meat so that the bacon
contamination. “I think it is probably less healthy doesn’t shrivel and spatter as it cooks. Flavor
than regular cured meats because of the bacteria can vary quite a bit from producer to producer,
load and the unknown efficacy of conversion by and is determined by the ingredients of the cure,
the bacteria,” he says. 24 the method of smoking and the timing. The age,
Nitrites were used traditionally to preserve gender and breed of the pig, as well as its time
food safely, including cured meat and fish, as well outdoors, forage and feed all influence the final
as some cheeses. Although improved hygiene and flavor of the bacon as well as its potential for
availability of refrigeration diminishes the need health benefits or risks.
for nitrite, it remains useful for its antioxidant
properties, antimicrobial activity, flavor en- DIRTY LITTLE SECRETS
hancement, and color development. 25-31 Modern Supermarket bacon may also use sodium
alternatives such as biological acidulants, para- nitrite, but not in a traditional way. Instead,
bens and sorbates are FDA-approved and gener- manufacturers opt for fast and cheap methods
ally considered safe. Yet biological acidulants by which inferior quality factory-farmed meat is
such as sodium and potassium bisulfates have pumped and plumped with a liquid cure solution
been linked to respiratory problems, including that includes sodium erythrobate and sodium
lung irritation and coughing, and parabens nitrite, along with “liquid smoke,” spices and
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are significant endocrine disrupters, with the flavorings heavy in MSG. After “curing” for a
potential to adversely affect the fertility and sex few hours, the pork is sprayed with more “liquid
lives of both men and women. As for sorbates, smoke” and heated until a smoke-like flavor per-
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the mainstream media only warn us about an as- meates the meat. The pork is then quickly chilled,
sociation with contact dermatitis. Older studies, machine-pressed into a uniform shape, sliced,
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however, suggested mutagenic sorbate and nitrite and packaged for sale. Pumped and plumped
reactions. 35,36 Biochemist Galen D. Knight, PhD, bacon may look big in the package, but shrinks,
is sufficiently concerned to exclude them from shrivels and spatters when cooked.
his diet: "The sorbates and parasorbates are es- “Liquid smoke,” a product heavily favored
sentially polyunsaturated fats capable of forming by big food manufacturers, is produced by burn-
both epoxides and enols, which are carcinogens. ing wood chips or sawdust, then condensing the
The 'bates should not be in our food supply if we smoke into solids or liquids and dissolving it in
want to remain healthy." water. It is being investigated by the European
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Food Safety Authority for safety as a food fla-
THE BACON CURE voring because of evidence of genotoxicity and
Could it be our ancestors were right after cytotoxicity. Indeed, one study suggests liquid
One study all? Could it also be that today’s new, improved smoke is more carcinogenic than cigarette smoke
suggests that and supposedly healthy versions of bacon are concentrate. 38-41
liquid smoke indeed not? The traditional way to make ba-
is more con is dry cured through hand rubbing with a CONCERNS ABOUT NITRITE
Concerns about the safety of nitrite first
mixture of herbs, sugars, salt, and the sodium
carcinogenic nitrite curing salts. Vitamin C in the mix helps surfaced in the 1960s when studies showed the
than cigarette form the nitrosylheme pigment that gives cured presence of carcinogenic nitrosamines in bacon
smoke meats their pleasing red color, and, as will be and other cured meat products. In the early
explained shortly, helps ensure that nitrites con-
1970s, researchers at the Massachusetts Institute
concentrate. vert to healthy nitrous oxide and not carcinogenic of Technology implicated nitrite itself as a car-
42 Wise Traditions FALL 2012 FALL 2012 Wise Traditions

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