Page 67 - Spring2015

All Thumbs Book Reviews

and writes about wine for the San Francisco considered—most of the big players in the industry know that neither
Chronicle. His interest in the story of wheat was insects nor rodents are stupid enough to eat the denatured flour they are
partially fueled by his wife’s experience at an made from—yet they are consumed daily by most Americans. Their role
Ayurvedic retreat when her masseurs refused as “carriers” for sandwich fillings makes them, at best, “edible gloves,”
to continue body work until she gave up gluten. as Yafa says.
“I have gluten neck,” she reported ruefully to Those with an interest in history, plant biochemistry, microbiology,
her husband. Yafa companionably joined her in horticulture and the culinary arts will all find subjects and personalities
a gluten-free month-long experiment and while of great interest and illumination in Grain of Truth. Yafa comes to believe
they both noted her improvement in some physi- that it is the unsavory mix of modern technology and mass food production
cal disorders, Yafa watched his pleasure fade that has besmirched the reputation of wheat. The miserable offerings of the
from mealtimes. Unapologetic in his devotion public food trough—commercial, mass-produced, crud-laden, food-like
to Wheaties and Triscuits, Yafa found that while artifacts—are largely responsible for the tangled web of health disorders
he had no cravings for these rebuffed favorites we can’t seem to escape. Conditions like wheat and/or gluten sensitivities
on their wheat fast, the exclusion of all wheat may also be symptoms of sugar overload, imbalanced and damaged gut
and bread products nevertheless blunted his flora, glyphosate and other pesticide and chemical exposure, as well as
otherwise happy anticipation of dining. For more other exogenous assaults too numerous to list.
than the next year he embarked on a journey of Dairy products have suffered a similar struggle to maintain integrity
discovery that included speaking with wheat in the past half century in this country. “Nature’s perfect food” has been
growers, millers, plant geneticists, artisan bakers targeted as a poison and killer along parallel tactics of mistaken identity.
and others involved one way or another in the I shouldn’t have to point out to readers of this journal the obvious fact
troubled history of this maligned food. that industry-produced dairy products not only bear no resemblance to
Yafa soon discovered that one may find “a the genuine article, but are indeed dangerous to health.
grain of truth” in nearly every thesis presented Yafa’s many months of research bear fruit in a most rewarding and
by all the writers who profess to have found delightful way when he decides to roll up his sleeves and become an ar-
the “smoking gun” in the guise of wheat glu- tisan sourdough baker. My heart leapt in comradely spirit to read of his
ten responsible for the sorry state of health in excitement when meeting other bakers with intimate knowledge of heritage
the United States today. Readers will find his wheat breeds, their individual nutrient and flavor profiles, and the magic
historical perspective on humans and grain con- of sourdough alchemy that creates satisfying tastes and aromas as well as
sumption revealing, as well as the path that plant producing digestible (to healthy individuals) results. Yafa’s wife was able to
breeders have taken in selecting modern strains return to eating bread when made by her husband with his newfound skill
of wheat to fulfill strict industry requirements of in the gentle art of fermentation. In fact, she even lost a last bit of stubborn
yield, accommodation to harvesting machinery, weight effortlessly when fully satisfied with her meals that included sour-
milling and manufacturing technology. Gluten, dough bread. His chapter entitled “The Sourdough Solution” provides an
most plant experts agree, has in fact not increased elegant introduction and explanation of the magical transformations that
in modern wheat, yet something called “vital microbes and an acidic environment wield on organic, whole meal flour.
gluten”—a powdered, high-potency concen- Grain of Truth includes an appendix with detailed instructions for
trated gluten supplement—is routinely added to Yafa’s multi-day sourdough bread recipe as well as one for local organic
commercial bread recipes in order for the dough grain and flour sources, and another for heritage grain and flour sources.
to perform in high-speed mass-production lines. Yafa’s pleasure in exploring the flavor palettes and nutritional benefits of
Most of the bread products made commercially properly grown and cultured heritage grains is inspiring and may be the
(hamburger buns, etc.) are transformed from best part of this story. Review by Katherine Czapp
dry ingredients to packaged product (with super
doses of undigested gluten) in a mere four hours.
The products’ health qualities are not remotely
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