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a syrup made from the agave’s nectar. of free fructose in agave syrups—much higher
The agave made by Nekutli seems far than honey and maple syrup. Given what we now
closer to tradition than IIDEA’s agave made from know about the deleterious effects of fructose
blue agave that has been selectively bred, for compared to sucrose, honey and maple syrup
perhaps centuries, to produce large plants with would seem to be better choices than agave for
higher levels of inulin (linked sugars). Enhanced home cooking. Questions also remain about the
inulin and sugar levels make the blue agave a end products of rapid enzymatic hydrolysis.
better plant for tequila production.
Meanwhile, Nekutli takes the original NECTAR OF THE GODS
aguamiel and processes it to remove strong Two thousand years or more ago, in the
avors and odors. But agave syrup made by central highlands of Mexico, the Native Ameri-
Nekutli is not the traditional sweetener either, as cans consumed a sacred drink made from from
it uses modern vacuum evaporation techniques, a variety of agave, such as the agave salmiana,
enzymes rather than heat, and a ltration system called pulque (pronounced pool-kay). Pulque is a
to remove many of the minerals and thereby cre- thick, whitish drink of 3-4 percent alcohol made
ate its light avor. via a brief fermentation of the aguamiel.
I purchased the raw varieties of Nekutli and Traditionally pulque was used by the Az-
IIDEA’s agave nectars and sampled them, both tecs for special celebrations, served as a ritual
plain, and also in my daily raw milk smoothie intoxicant for priests to increase their enthusiasm,
with raw eggs. In texture and form, both nectars and as a medicinal drink. Pulque was also consid-
were very similar to honey. They had a sweet ered a nutrient-rich drink reserved for pregnant
flavor; the difference in flavor between the and nursing women; its nutrients decrease the
agave syrups and honey was noticeable but not risk for anemia. A mildly alcoholic drink that is
extreme. good for pregnancy and breastfeeding denitely
In a crude science experiment, I placed goes against modern conventional beliefs. (To be
petri dishes with the agave syrups, and petri clear, I am not suggesting pregnant women drink
dishes with two brands of unheated honey out alcohol such as wine or beer.) This shows that the
for the bugs to eat. From a visual perspective form and preparation of alcoholic beverages, as
one can hardly tell the difference between the well as the concentration of the alcohol, dramati-
agave syrups and the honeys. The ants preferred cally affect the beverage’s positive or negative
the agave syrups over the honeys, especially the effects on the body. Pulque provides thiamine, Traditionally
dark raw agave manufactured by IIDEA. riboavin, niacin and pantothenic acid, as well as
During the taste test, and through observing enzymes and bene cial bacteria from the natural pulque was
myself afterwards, I had a hard time nding fault fermentation process. used by the
with the agave sweeteners. While agave syrup is The rst stage of pulque production is the Aztecs for
not a product I will continue to use, the organic same as the rst stage for producing Nekutli’s
varieties I tried were clearly not worse than, say, agave syrup. During maturity of the plant the special
organic evaporated cane sugar found in many giant owering stalk is cut before it grows, and celebrations,
organically labeled products. Further detailed each day a natural bowl in the base of the plant served as a
testing would be required to ascertain how good lls with aguamiel. The aguamiel was originally
or bad they truly are. As a side note, both of these ceremonially collected and carefully fermented ritual
agave syrups seem to come from agave grown in without any additional processing. The native intoxicant for
pristine lands with rich soils. enzymes and bacteria in the aguamiel naturally priests to
The physical properties of agave make it and automatically turn the aguamiel into pulque.
ideal for manufacturing—perhaps that was the In 36-48 hours, the famous drink is nished. The increase their
original intent for developing this processed liquid is said to be very sour and smelly, similar enthusiasm,
sweetener. Agave syrup blends well with food, to the taste of fermented sorghum beer from and as a
has a bland and mild taste, and does not compete Africa—de nitely an acquired taste!
with other avors. Still, just hearing about this mythical and medicnal
However a major concern is the high level revered drink, lled with life-giving nutrients, drink.
SUMMER 2008 Wise Traditions 49