Page 51 - Summer2008
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a syrup made from the agave’s nectar.     of free fructose in agave syrups—much higher
               The  agave  made  by  Nekutli seems far  than honey and maple syrup. Given what we now
          closer to tradition than IIDEA’s agave made from  know about the deleterious effects of fructose
          blue agave that has been selectively bred, for  compared to sucrose, honey and maple syrup
          perhaps centuries, to produce large plants with  would seem to be better choices than agave for
          higher levels of inulin (linked sugars). Enhanced  home cooking. Questions also remain about the
          inulin and sugar levels make the blue agave a  end products of rapid enzymatic hydrolysis.
          better plant for tequila production.
               Meanwhile,  Nekutli  takes  the  original  NECTAR OF THE GODS
          aguamiel and  processes it to remove strong     Two thousand years or more ago, in the

          avors and odors. But agave syrup made by  central highlands of Mexico, the Native Ameri-
          Nekutli is not the traditional sweetener either, as  cans consumed a sacred drink made from from
          it uses modern vacuum evaporation techniques,  a variety of agave, such as the agave salmiana,

          enzymes rather than heat, and a ltration system  called pulque (pronounced pool-kay). Pulque is a
          to remove many of the minerals and thereby cre-  thick, whitish drink of 3-4 percent alcohol made

          ate its light avor.                      via a brief fermentation of the aguamiel.
               I purchased the raw varieties of Nekutli and     Traditionally pulque was used by the Az-
          IIDEA’s agave nectars and sampled them, both  tecs for special celebrations, served as a ritual
          plain, and also in my daily raw milk smoothie  intoxicant for priests to increase their enthusiasm,
          with raw eggs. In texture and form, both nectars  and as a medicinal drink. Pulque was also consid-
          were very similar to honey. They had a sweet  ered a nutrient-rich drink reserved for pregnant
          flavor;  the  difference  in  flavor  between  the  and nursing women; its nutrients decrease the
          agave syrups and honey was noticeable but not  risk for anemia. A mildly alcoholic drink that is

          extreme.                                  good for pregnancy and breastfeeding denitely
               In a crude science experiment, I placed  goes against modern conventional beliefs. (To be
          petri dishes with the agave syrups, and petri  clear, I am not suggesting pregnant women drink
          dishes with two brands of unheated honey out  alcohol such as wine or beer.) This shows that the
          for the bugs to eat. From a visual perspective  form and preparation of alcoholic beverages, as
          one can hardly tell the difference between the  well as the concentration of the alcohol, dramati-
          agave syrups and the honeys. The ants preferred  cally affect the beverage’s positive or negative
          the agave syrups over the honeys, especially the  effects on the body. Pulque provides thiamine,   Traditionally

          dark raw agave manufactured by IIDEA.     riboavin, niacin and pantothenic acid, as well as
               During the taste test, and through observing  enzymes and bene cial bacteria from the natural   pulque was

          myself afterwards, I had a hard time nding fault  fermentation process.             used by the
          with the agave sweeteners. While agave syrup is     The rst stage of pulque production is the   Aztecs for

          not a product I will continue to use, the organic  same as the  rst stage for producing Nekutli’s
          varieties I tried were clearly not worse than, say,  agave syrup. During maturity of the plant the   special
          organic evaporated cane sugar found in many  giant  owering stalk is cut before it grows, and  celebrations,

          organically labeled products. Further detailed  each day a natural bowl in the base of the plant   served as a
          testing would be required to ascertain how good   lls with aguamiel. The aguamiel was originally
          or bad they truly are. As a side note, both of these  ceremonially collected and carefully fermented   ritual
          agave syrups seem to come from agave grown in  without any additional processing. The native  intoxicant for
          pristine lands with rich soils.           enzymes and bacteria in the aguamiel naturally   priests to
               The physical properties of agave make it  and automatically turn the aguamiel into pulque.
          ideal for manufacturing—perhaps that was the  In 36-48 hours, the famous drink is  nished. The   increase their
          original intent for developing this processed  liquid is said to be very sour and smelly, similar  enthusiasm,
          sweetener. Agave syrup blends well with food,  to the taste of fermented sorghum beer from   and as a
          has a bland and mild taste, and does not compete  Africa—de nitely an acquired taste!
          with other avors.                             Still, just hearing about this mythical and   medicnal

               However a major concern is the high level  revered drink,  lled with life-giving nutrients,  drink.
          SUMMER 2008                                Wise Traditions                                           49
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