Page 62 - Winter2014
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The agenda        cially saturated fat and cholesterol from animal  foods that have a wider profit margin than eggs
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          of vegetarians      products—led to heart disease. Responding to  and meat.
                                                                            These cultural forces coalesced around
                              these interests, manufacturers of “heart-healthy”
              and health      margarines and meat substitutes began claiming  Senator George McGovern's Senate Select Com-
               reformers      their products could reduce the risk of heart dis-  mittee on Nutrition and Human Needs, which
             who urged        ease, although the federal government remained  was first created in order to address malnutrition
                              unconvinced.
                                                                         in America. The work of the Select Committee
          Americans to            Evidence that dietary fat and cholesterol had  had been so successful that it shifted its attention
                consume       significant effects on heart disease was elusive,  from malnutrition to “overnutrition” and focused
           fewer animal       and the Federal Trade Commission repeatedly  on the creation of a report that was meant to do
                              warned manufacturers not to make false and  for diet and chronic disease what the 1964 Sur-
          products, eat       misleading claims linking food products to  geon General's Report had done for cigarettes and

             more grain       the prevention of heart disease.  Although the  cancer.  This work took on renewed urgency and
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              and cereal      AHA primarily aimed its fear-of-fat message  significance as the committee's tenure seemed
                              at businessmen who might be lucrative donors,   about to come to an end.  Such a report would
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               products,      the counter-culture thinking that emerged from  address the public's growing fears about obesity
                   and to     the social upheavals of the 1960s picked up the  and chronic disease and policymakers' concerns
               substitute     refrain, marrying concerns about chronic disease  about rising health care costs―and perhaps ex-
                              to anxiety about the environment and world  tend the lifespan of the committee itself.
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                     poly-    hunger.                                       During the summer of 1976, the committee
            unsaturated           Earlier in the decade, a popular vegetarian  conducted a series of hearings, entitled "Diet
           oils found in      cookbook by Frances Moore Lappé, Diet for a  Related to Killer Diseases," from doctors and
                              Small Planet, suggested that a meat-free diet  scientists specifically chosen for their willingness
                corn and      would be low in saturated fat and cholesterol,  “to talk about eating less fat, eating less sugar,
             soybean oil      thus reducing risk of obesity, heart disease and  eating less meat.”  The title of the hearings and
                                                                                       15
           for saturated      cancer; furthermore, Lappé asserted, a vegetari-  the experts chosen to testify set the direction
                              an way of life would reduce world hunger, energy  for their findings. In early 1977, the commit-
        animal fats like      costs, and environmental impacts of agriculture.   tee released the Dietary Goals for Americans,
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              butter and          While Frances Moore Lappé's Diet for a  blaming what they saw as an “epidemic" of killer
          lard, fit neatly    Small Planet popularized vegetarian ideology,  diseases—obesity, diabetes, heart disease and
                              then-Secretary of Agriculture Earl Butz, an  cancer—on changes in the American diet that
               into large     economist with many ties to large agricultural  had occurred in the previous fifty years, specifi-
            agribusiness      corporations, was enacting policies that encour-  cally the increase in “fatty and cholesterol-rich
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                efforts to    aged the planting of large-scale, monoculture  foods.”
                              crops on all arable land.
                                                                            The report claimed that in order to reduce
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            increase the          The  “fencerow  to  fencerow”  policies  their risk of chronic disease, Americans should
              market for      Butz initiated helped to shift farm animals  reduce their intake of food that contained fat,
              processed       from pasture land to feed lots. Making room  particularly saturated fat and cholesterol from
                              for government-subsidized corn and soybeans  animal products like meat, whole milk, eggs
              foods that      would increase efficiency of food production;  and butter, and instead consume more grains,
                   have a     what didn’t go into cows could go into humans,  cereals, vegetable oils, fruits, and vegetables.
            wider profit      including the oils that were a by-product of turn-  These particular recommendations reflected
                                                                         not only concerns related to health, but the
                              ing crops into animal feed.
            margin than           The agenda of vegetarians and health re-  “back-to-nature” ideology that was becoming
                eggs and      formers who urged Americans to consume fewer  increasingly popular with regard to food and
                    meat.     animal products, eat more grain and cereal prod-  diet. The committee used material from Diet for
                              ucts, and to substitute polyunsaturated oils found  a Small Planet, along with research on vegetarian
                              in corn and soybean oil for saturated animal fats  diets, to argue that a shift to plant-based protein
                              like butter and lard, fit neatly into large agribusi-  could reduce intake of calories, cholesterol and
                              ness efforts to increase the market for processed  saturated fat, as well as reduce blood pressure,
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   145881_text.indd   58                                                                                      12/23/14   12:16 AM
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