Page 64 - Winter2014
P. 64

Since the      since that time remains inconsistent, limited,  would be very difficult for farmers who produced
                                                                                     33
          advent of the       and open to question.                      eggs and meat. To compound the advantage, for
                                  In 1997, Ancel Keys, the scientist whose  “food producers and processors whose product

              first DGA,      theories about dietary cholesterol and heart  categories are favored by the goals, greater pro-
            the amount        disease first warned Americans away from meat  motional emphasis on the nutrition value of these
               of money       and eggs, acknowledged, “There’s no connec-  products may be expected. In effect products can
                              tion whatsoever between cholesterol in food and  be promoted using the national dietary goals as
                  farmers     cholesterol in the blood. None. And we’ve known  a 'stamp of approval' to gain greater acceptance
                  receive     that all along.”  Studies cited by the 2010 DGAC  in an increasingly nutrition-conscious market-
                                          27
                                                                              33
                 for food     Report demonstrate varied metabolic responses  place.”  The group most likely to be hurt by the
                              to lowered dietary saturated fat, with certain  new paradigm was not food processors but farm-
               produced       subpopulations exhibiting adverse rather than  ers: “The farmers feel especially threatened . . .
               has fallen     improved health outcomes.  Two recent com-  because their livelihood could be most directly
                                                      3
              by half. As     prehensive meta-analyses indicate that saturated  affected by the recommended changes. As the
                                                              In fact, in  primary element in the food chain, farmers tend
                              fat is not linked to heart disease.
                                                          28,29
              consumers       a definitive review of forty-eight clinical trials,  to be the most specialized and do not enjoy the
                 adopted      with over sixty-five thousand participants, the  flexibility and insulation of a multi-product line
                                                                                      33
                    eating    reduction or modification of dietary fat had no  food processor.”
                                                                            Indeed, since the advent of the first DGA,
                              effect on mortality, cardiovascular mortality,
                 patterns     heart attacks, stroke, cancer, or diabetes.  Yet,  the amount of money farmers receive for food
                                                                 30
        recommended           avoiding saturated fat remains a cornerstone of  produced has fallen by half.  As consumers
                                                                                                  34
           in the DGA,        national dietary guidance. Surveys show that the  adopted eating patterns recommended in the
                              vast majority of Americans have come to believe  DGA, a much larger share of their food dollar
                  a much      that consuming animal fats increases one's risk of  went to increased processing and marketing and
             larger share     heart disease, and many try to limit their intake  the labor costs associated with these activities.
           of their food      of foods that contain these fats. 31       Since the DGA encourages Americans to con-
                                                                         sume fewer of the products that generate a higher
         dollar went to       UNDERMINING INDEPENDENT FARMERS  farm value―in other words, what the farmer is

               increased          The 1977 Dietary Goals did more than  paid for the product that leaves the farm―and
        processing and        change the health beliefs of Americans. They  more of the products that generate a lower farm
                              affected all aspects of the food environment. That  value, farmers overall receive less of each dollar
         marketing and        the 1977 Goals would have a powerful effect on  spent on food in America. For example, the farm
        the labor costs       the food industry was apparent even before they  value of eggs, a food the DGA tells Americans

       associated with        were finalized, but it is unlikely that the result  to limit, is worth 54 percent of the consumer’s
                              was the intended one. While the initial hear-
                                                                         dollar. Instead, the DGA recognizes cereal as a
        these activities.     ings were being held, members of McGovern's  preferred “healthy” breakfast; its farm value is
                              committee were warned that the food industry  worth only 8 percent of the consumer’s dollar.
                              would respond with an explosion of products     Conventional arguments that promote plant-
                              designed to meet whatever new dietary standards  based diets as the most beneficial for health,
                              were established.  With the creation of the 1977  the environment, and feeding the world neglect
                                            32
                              Goals, the federal government had unmistakably  to address the way in which those diets are
                              designated who the “winners” and “losers” in  compatible with the agricultural policies that
                              the food sector would be. The “winners” would  benefit large agricultural corporations and un-
                              be manufacturers of breads, cereals, margarine,  dermine the interests of farmers. Creating a more
                              cooking oils, and soy products; “losers” would  “democratic, socially and economically just,
                              be producers of meats, butter, eggs and cheese.   and environmentally sustainable” food system
                                  Experts recognized at the time that many  that supports farmers may need to begin with a
                              processed food manufacturers could “reformu-  reassessment of what foods may be considered
                              late existing products to remove their allegedly  nourishing. 35
                              deleterious nutritional effects,” something that
         60                                         Wise Traditions                                WINTER 2014                                                                Wise Traditions





   145881_text.indd   60                                                                                      12/23/14   12:16 AM
   59   60   61   62   63   64   65   66   67   68   69